koi pond Vortex filter system explained

Vortex filters are often incorporated into the build of a filter or can be added to an existing filter via a stand alone unit.
There are various filters on the market that incorporate a vortex and with the possibility of a stand alone unit many koi keepers have addapted there main filter to add additional filter media by simply moving the various medias into the different sections, Then adding a stand alone unit so as to keep a vortex but to also have the extra bay of filter media. Which we will explain later in this article so you can maximise the benefits of your filter. It is worth noteing that the vortex system is not new, over time it has been replaced by the newer mechanical sieves which are much more efficient in their removal of solid waste. We look at sieves in its own section Here

Firstly how does a vortex work?
A vortex is the first chamber of the filtration system from the pump, this can be an in pond pump or a dry mounted pump connected from your bottom drain. They work in a very simple way by using there shape and the placement of the inlet to create a swirl (vortex). The water is forced around the edgaes of the vortex causing heavy solids to sink to the bottom and the cleaner water to flow over a weir or flow through to the main filter. This water is far cleaner already so the next section of the filter usually contains a lager media such as Japanese matting or filter brushes. This water then passes through the rest of the filter before returning back to the pond.
This is all done so that less solid waste enters the main filter system allowing less cleaning of brushes, matting and media. The main cleaning becomes the simple task of flushing out of the vortex, which as standard has a bottom valve which the owner can plumb into a drain or use on there garden.

As said earlier many koi keepers have incorporated a stand alone vortex and customized there filter for better filtration and thus obtaining better water quality. There are so many filters on the market and many many ways to customize each one it would be impossible to cover all the different ideas, so we will look at the main principle of what can be done and give you the ideas as to what may suit your system. Below you can see the photograph of a standard filter with a vortex included and media supplied.

Now these filters are supplied 99% of the time with light weight media called flocor, japanese matting, filter sponges and brushes. This is primarily because flocor is cheap and lightweight, when the manufacturer ships out their filters to the various dealers it saves huge costs on shipping. It is not the best filter media but does work for small low stocked garden ponds.

The customization begins with the removal of the brushes which can be moved to the older vortex section or replaced with Japanese matting, This is because the stand alone vortex has already removed the larger solid waste from entering the main filter. The next step is the removal of the flocor and adding a far superior media such as K1 or alphagrog or even one of the various ceramic medias on the market. Now you are left with one or more empty sections, these are sections that give you a world of choice as to which additional media you would like to add. A popular choice is a bay full of airated K1 media, by this we mean a k1 section constantly being supplied with oxygen from an air pump, this method also requires a grill plate to stop the K1 flowing in to the next section.

The basic principle is to add as much media as possible to allow the good bacteria to colonize your filter yet keeping as much solid waste out of the filter as possible. Remember a vortex is not a new system it has been largely replaced by mechanical sieves as these are fitted with various screens that contain a stainless steel mesh with holes varying from 180 to 250 micons ( 0.18 - 0.25 millimeters ), meaning any waste larger than this size cannot enter the main filter system. Details on the mechanical sieves can be read here.